12 May 2010

Borneo. The very name sends chills down the spine. Exotic jungles, wild men, head-hunters and the like. Tales of dark jungles and enticing moments, exotic birds and animals, all abound in Borneo.

Great Argus in Malaysia. Painting by Simon Mustoe.

What it doesn’t tell you is the sheer vibrancy and excitement of the people and the place that is Sabah, Borneo. The stunning food, beaches, resorts, markets from a time gone by; all are to be found in this tropical paradise. A visit to Sabah, Borneo for bird watching is a real thrill and you don’t need to be a full on twitcher to see or get a feel of some excellent oriental birds. Some splendid endemic birds and mammals call this island home too, not least of which is Bornean Bristlehead in the bird department and the endemic and very cute, Proboscis Monkey.

If you’re not into all day bird walks and simply want to see a few of the Asian specialities of the region then a walk around the grounds of the resort hotels can offer exceptional birding for a first time visitor and occasional bird watcher. With Oriental Magpie Robin, White-breasted Waterhen, Pink-necked Green Pigeons and Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike all seen around the hotel in the first half hour of daylight it makes for an interesting pre-breakfast walk.

In the capital of Sabah, Kota Kinabalu, international brands such as Le Meriden in the centre of the city and opposite the fabulous Philippine Night Market (great for dinner or just exploring the colours, sights, sounds and smells) or the Hyatt Regency offer excellent value for money and the chance to be right in the hub of this vibrant city. For our first night though we opted to be a little out of town, some 28 km away, at Karambunai and the stunning Nexus Resort & Spa in fact. With glorious beaches, a golf course, spa, superb restaurants and bars you may think this is not the place for a bird watching holiday? However, a walk along the jungle fringed perimeter of the golf course, the many lagoons or around the beach and estuarine area bordering the resort can provide some splendid bird watching before breakfast. Nexus happily provided a local bird “expert” when we asked, as well as a bird information sheet on the birds to be found around the resort. All very useful too if you’re not an expert.

Off Kota Kinabalu lies Gaya Island; one of five islands in the Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park. These coral reef fringed islands are perfect for a lazy holiday and offer superb snorkelling and diving, some shorter jungle treks complete with a chance of maybe sighting a Proboscis Monkey family or the option of loafing around the luxurious pool and beach. Gaya Island is home to Eco Gayana Lodge a totally self sustaining eco-resort with the remarkable Marine Ecology Research Centre on site. The idea of putting back into the environment is core philosophy at Eco Gayana with established MERC programmes covering Giant Clam conversation and re-introduction, sea-horse & fish breeding and coral planting, all aimed at restoring these reefs to their former glory. A visit in the evening by “Joe” the Bearded Pig is an experience not to be missed. What a splendid beast Joe is.

Local girls dressed in the feathers of a Great Argus

The great thing about bird watching around Kota Kinabalu and the resorts is that during the heat of the day you can easily complete your other sightseeing or retire to the spa, beach, pool or other amenities of your hotel. A late afternoon bird walk prepares your appetite for dinner.

The famous wild men of Borneo (the endearing Orang-utan often seen with Clint Eastwood and other not so famous people) can be seen at Sepilok: a short flight from the capital to Sandakan and on to the Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre will have you face to face with this near relative of yours: the sort of family member we would all love to have! Wild Orang-utan also visit the centre for the food frenzy served each morning to the animals under care.

If you want a real Borneo bird watching trip though, a trip to Borneo Rainforest Lodge at Dannum Valley is in order as well as a two or three night excursion to the slopes of Mount Kinabalu. These two venues offer a great selection of Bornean endemic birds and mammals in magical settings: a guide will make for a truly unforgettable trip.

For more about birdwatching in Sabah, read this trip report by Alan McBride

More reports from Sabah on Wildiaries

• Poring Hot Springs and Kota Kinabalu
• Kinabalu Park
• Kinabatangan River
• Sepilok